Blow Presents SS 2010 Round-up – London Fashion Week
IRIS VAN HERPEN (as seen above)
‘I’m really happy everything went really well and the reaction has been really positive.
The inspiration for the collection is radiation. It’s a bit of unknown field right now and there are a lot of things happening with telephones and wireless internet it would be nice if we could see it and frightening at the same time.’ - Iris Van Herpen
The collection of dresses and jump suits were structured and fitted but then sprawled out into shapes resembling corals so elaborate that they appeared to have life in them. The gold and silvers defined the shapes of each piece and reinforced the theme of radiation, uncertain forces that emitted fear and beauty together.
Notable pieces were the mask and dress ensemble of black and silver. The dress was a structured black background sprayed with silver. Around the cuffs and chest area were strong waves of metal. The same metal was used for the mask that covered the entire face. Somewhat alien looking instead of being scary and rigid the outfit was soft and stunning. Foot accessories were made of material wrapped around the foot and through the toes that initially left a lot of people searching for heels that weren’t there as the models sustained a tiptoed walk throughout the show.
‘I wanted to show something in between shoes and accessories, a little bit weird but still beautiful. It also looks a little bit unfamiliar and strange but nice at the same time. I don’t really have a name for them, maybe just shoe accessories.’
GEMMA SLACK
Gemma Slack had designed half her SS10 collection whilst still making her graduate collection. ‘You just really learn, like you do one bit and then maybe you really love an aspect of it but don’t have the time to start taking it somewhere. My brain just goes into overdrive. Even when you’re pattern cutting you get ideas but there are time limitations so you record if for later.’
Gemma Slack’s second collection consists of bold pieces with lots of detail. Inspired by the futuristic super heroine – mini skirts, crop tops, bra tops and dresses were constructed from black leathers and suede to silver studs and metal.
Sexy skintight dresses were ripped, slashed and cut out adding a rock element to the garments. The large circular metal work outfit and skirts were by far the most visually exciting parts of the collection although as Gemma said herself, ‘you probably wouldn’t be able to fit them through a door.’ Whilst the big shiny pieces drew the most attention it was in the finer details that her skills and technique showed creating an overtly sexual and edgy collection for the strong and modern woman.
‘I’m really pleased with how everything came together. This collection was so scary as it felt like I was doing what I wanted to do. There were no restrictions or tutor telling me that the cut’s not very good or that wont work.’
CHARLIE LE MINDU
Charlie Le Mindu, the wigmaker dressed most of his models in skintight nude or black PVC to exhibit his kitsch and elaborate headpieces. The remaining models were dressed completely in hair, and lots of it.
It was hard not to draw references from the looks that came out onto the catwalk; a giant blonde fringed ‘Cousin It’, giant lips covered in black or blonde hair – very Lulu Guinness, three stacked-together hair braided Lady Gaga-esque sunglasses (she is a huge fan of the wigmaker), long blonde braided tentacles resembling Davy Jones from the Pirates of the Caribbean movies and hair covered body suits in brunette and ginger in the style of Bigfoot. An Eiffel Tower headpiece inspired by the wigmakers French roots and the birthday of the Eiffel Tower lit up the runway.
The collection was bold, daring, full of variety and the collection above all was a very hairy affair.
LINA OSTERMAN
This was Lina Osterman’s first collection since graduating from Central Saint Martins. Osterman choose to focus on design instead of colour and thus the collection was filled with blocks of black, grey and navy with a single white look.
Models sported bowl haircuts and masks covering nearly the entire face. Spikes and studs were used to decorate leggings and jackets. Crocheted, flowing and fringed cardigans, tops and jackets were layered to create the punk androgyny inspired collection. However peeling back those layers revealed a tailored, sophisticated and wearable SS10 wardrobe.
QASIMI – Blow Off Schedule
Khalid Al-Qasimi’s fourth collection for QASIMI was inspired by ancient spiritualism from the Byzantium era. Soft drapery in delicate chiffon contrasted with bold structured jackets hand-embellished in Swarovski crystals, antique metals, laser-cut mirrors and intricate beading. All of which was completed by jewellery from Scott Wilson and headpieces by Nasir Mazhar.
The dominant shades were cream, white and burgundy, with a touch of turquoise and gold embroidery. According to the designer himself, the ‘Byzantium divine goddesses with strong shoulders’ were aimed at bringing ‘positivity and good vibes’. He also revealed that plans for the future involved the following ‘We are also showing Menswear in Paris and we’d like to develop our collaboration with jewellery designer Scott Wilson‘.
With thanks to Alizé Morand
